The New Dish Project

This photo series originally appeared at Pyragraph.

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The New Dish Project is a series that documents a 30-day process of building a collection of individual tableware pieces from scratch, shot in Old Town Albuquerque, New Mexico, in May 2015. At the time, I had just returned to New Mexico from a decade in New York. The shelves that held my working food photographer’s collection, built over the years were 2000 miles away. In my new studio, I had nothing — no plates, flatware, cups or glasses. I set out to find a new piece every day while exploring my beautiful new outdoor shooting space, all of Old Town. I began with the Boy Scout jackknife that was always in my camera bag and had saved many an impromptu picnic. As a bonus, this personal project also allowed me to write a little bit about my food photography philosophy.

Ball Jar by Clarke Conde

The Ball Jar

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The first piece is classic. Given to me by a friend with a candle in it, this Ball jar has been cleaned and repurposed for the Ball jar banana split and photographed right here in Old Town, Albuquerque.

Lowball glass by Clarke Conde

The Lowball Glass

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For a quarter, from the estate sale down the street, comes my new lowball glass. With its heavy base, two fingers of whiskey, and the year and initials that prompt a fictional story, it is the perfect addition to the studio’s now two-item collection.

Bowl of noodles in Old Town Albuquerque by Clarke Conde

The Noodle Bowl

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On the stretch of Central Avenue, between Albuquerque’s Old Town and New, I found tucked on a low shelf of St. Joseph’s thrift store this simple noodle bowl. Noodles with miso, bok choy and seaweed fitted into the bowl and photographed under the New Mexican sun on a stuccoed wall right by the photography studio. It is a simple, low-key bowl, that will accent a variety of foods.

Chopsticks by Clarke Conde

Chopsticks

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At the cost of $1.39 for a pack of 10 from the grocery store in Albuquerque’s Wells Park neighborhood, it is hard to find a more versatile, reusable utensil for a food photographer’s shelf than bamboo chopsticks. For propping, stirring, poking, moving and occasionally even eating, they are almost as valuable as a roll of paper towels in the studio. Today, they are paired with a red chile-dusted fried egg I got from a local chicken I know.

a black plate by Clarke Conde

The Black Plate

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Just a short 15-mile bike ride to the northeast of Albuquerque is the Goodwill store on Paseo del Norte where I found this black plate for $1.99. What has become a staple for food photographers, the black plate frames colorful food, like this guacamole with red chile, green onion and corn tostadas beautifully. Shot on a bench in Old Town, one block from the studio, the black plate is a welcome and necessary addition to the food photography dish collection here in New Mexico.

coupe glass by clarke conde

The Coupe Glass

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Sprung from the fabled history of Ancien Régime France, the coupe glass made it through the revolution, though its shape model famously did not. The coupe is a staple for beverage photographers. Sadly, I recently heard a revolting story of the specific demise of the coupe glasses I left in New York. Fortunately, I found a new set for 99 cents here in New Mexico. C’est la vie. Vodka, tonic and a thick slice of orange photographed in the plaza in Old Town, Albuquerque.

Los Muertos Eternal Fiesta Dark Red & Green Chile Bar

Small White Plate

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For simplicity, it is hard to beat the small white plate. Had for 25 cents at the thrift store down the street, the low-rise rim and the teacup scale provide the perfect separation for a small food photo where the wrapped product also needs to be in the shot. However, this is a special case where the product (the Los Muertos Eternal Fiesta Dark Red and Green Chile Bar) is part of a fundraiser for my friends over at the Red Wagon Urban Farm here in Albuquerque, New Mexico.

Rooster glass by clarke conde

The Rooster Glass

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While not something I would normally stock the studio with, the Rooster Glass was given to me last night at a fundraiser by my friend Persephone, who has been following my New Dish Project and brought it especially for my collection. Thank you, Persephone! It is a welcome addition, shot today with a strawberry yogurt parfait here in Old Town, Albuquerque, where people are starting to notice that some guy keeps walking around the plaza photographing food in various locations.

Martha Stewart’s Strawberry Layer Cake

The Black-rimmed Plate

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The black-rimmed dinner plate acts like a proper black frame and white matte for a food photograph. Given to me by Peri (thank you, Peri!) last night in a flourish of activity where she emptied damn near every dish (explaining each provenance) from the cabinets of her Albuquerque home. I tried a variety of items on the plate and every one of them looked great, in part because the plate provides a border between the food and the background. The best was Mary’s version of Martha Stewart’s Strawberry Layer Cake, adapted with apricot jam and served at her son’s fifth birthday today. Happy Birthday, Trudell!

black bowl by clarke conde

The Black Bowl

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Scratched enough to show texture, though not so much as to be distracting, I found this black bowl at Goodwill for $2. The key to using black dishes in food photographs is to manage the void and not let it consume the photo. Sometimes you want a range of shades reflecting the lighting and contrasting the food. This over-grilled drumstick is a perfect example of the way texture can be reflected with black. Shot right here in a shady spot in Albuquerque and eaten promptly after.

Egg cup by Clarke Conde

The Egg Cup

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Like a corseted Victorian, what this new egg cup of mine lacks in practicality, it makes up for in elegance. For 25 cents at the thrift store (the name of which I was recently encouraged not to reveal, lest people swarm in and grab all the good stuff), the egg cup almost seems like a throwback to an earlier food time before the fear of salmonella cast a shadow over all soft-boiled eggs. I fear not because I know this chicken and her blue eggs.

cheese knife by clarke conde

The Cheese Knife

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There is a world to cheese knives that if I had a cheese client I would gladly get into, but as the New Dish Collection is something of a thirty-dish overview, my new 25-cent cheese knife will suffice for now. These knives are paired with the hardness of cheese and often have a shape honed over time and tradition. In this case, I’ve paired this with an Irish Cheddar that looks at home next to a wood barrel here on the plaza in Old Town.

P-38 can opener by Clarke Conde

The P-38

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I would be remiss if I didn’t include in this collection an item that I almost forgot that I had on me, but have reached in my pocket for instinctively since I was a teenager every time I needed to open a can: the P-38. Ounce for ounce, you’d be hard-pressed to find an item that has met the needs of more hungry American soldiers than the P-38. Designed in WWII to open food cans on the front, you will still find the P-38 on the key chains of veterans of a certain age because it continues to perform the same job with the same precision without rusting, dulling or breaking more than 70 years later. Issued to GIs until the advent of the MRE ration in the 1980s, they are still 50 cents at military surplus stores.

crawfish by clarke conde

The Plastic Deli Container

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Ubiquitous, yet indispensable, the plastic deli container is available in a variety of sizes and has revolutionized food storage, transportation and sales. Somewhere between when they stopped putting Big Macs in Styrofoam boxes and today, these clear plastic throwaway containers showed up in the service of a hungry public too hurried to get a plate. In a well-appointed food photography studio, stacks of these await moving foods. At the local grocery store here in Albuquerque, a plastic deli container can be had for all of seven cents, complete with the fishmonger’s choice of the single best-looking, fully cooked, wild-caught, Chinese crawfish.

Elvis sandwich by clarke conde

The Pewter Plate

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So maligned is the pewter platter that it garners no more than a dollar from the church sale. Let me say, though, in the defense of this base metal, pewter has a quality overlooked by snobs seeking shiny, pretty things, rather like the late-night sandwiches of kings. As ugly as it is, the Elvis Sandwich, with the triumvirate of bacon, peanut butter and banana fried in bacon grease, adds a convert with every bite. Today, the king of sandwiches is held up high on my new pewter platter in the early evening here in Old Town, Albuquerque, New Mexico.

Tulip Glass by clarke conde

The Tulip Glass

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Among beer aficionados and barkeeps of a certain ilk, there is much debate about glassware. While the durable shaker pint glass is still favored by barkeeps who prefer not to constantly buy new glasses to replace the broken ones, the tulip glass is preferred by many who would rather have a glass that accentuates the taste and aroma of the beer. I am not a picky man, but given the choice, I’ll take the tulip. Seen here is my new tulip glass from New Mexico’s own Tractor Brewing Company, photographed promptly after today’s noontime sleet storm right outside my Old Town food photography studio.

Bamboo spoon by Clarke conde

The Bamboo Spoon

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For the moment, I have sidestepped the whole issue of a wooden spoon. A good, seasoned wooden spoon for sauces is elemental for a chef, passed down through generations in some families. The wood type is often debated and the shape argued over. Now, I am not a chef. I am a food photographer. I’m not looking for tools that make food taste good. I’m looking for tools that make food look good. So today I found three new large bamboo spoons for $2.99. My favorite is this haphazardly asymmetrical one with a slight concavity. I have to say, it looks pretty good with the rice and sesame seeds in the backyard of the Albuquerque studio.

toothpick in food photo by clarke conde

The Toothpick

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It is not too much of a stretch to say that food photography prior to the digital revolution owes everything to the lowly toothpick. Indispensable, undetectable, disposable; a pack of 250 were on sale tonight for 79 cents. Seen here holding together two pieces of green chile bratwurst — ladies and gentlemen, the toothpick.

Ice cream sandwiches by clarke conde

The Stoneware Plate

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Heavy and handmade, with pits and impurities, my new stoneware plate has a rough quality that matches rough-edged foods. Given to me by my friend Megan, she said she liked the minty green. She said that orange foods would really pop on it, which they would, but I don’t have any orange foods to photograph today, and orange is so tough to rhyme. Plus, I have a plan which is these ice cream sandwiches.

blue glass cup by clarke conde

Blue Glass Cup

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As a guest on the podcast Self Employed Happy Hour this morning, I talked about the New Dish Project and the process of putting together a new food photography studio in Old Town Albuquerque, New Mexico. There, I was given this blue glass cup filled with a mimosa. Without getting into the numerous merits of blue glass, or the old world geography of traditional east-west touch points along the bowl-cup-glass shape continuum, let me just say thanks to Peri for the cup, the mimosa and for having me on the show.

plate from cafe bubbles by clarke conde

The Bubbles Plate

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Two lifetimes ago, there was a restaurant in Albuquerque’s Nob Hill neighborhood called Café Bubbles that had me shoot my first restaurant ad, hosted my art shows, gave my toddling daughter free reign over the place and served their food on these blue plates. This is one of the few remaining plates, given to me by my friend, the former restaurateur, Mary. Like Mary says, everything looks great on it. Especially orange things.

bowl of rice by Clarke Conde

Rough Painted Bowl

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Sometimes it helps to have a bowl that is a little rough around the edges. With a little chip or scrape, it looks like it has a bit of experience. Sometimes I want to convey that experience, like with this rough painted bowl filled with rice and pickled carrots, shot here in Old Town Albuquerque, where everything seems to have a little chip or scrape earned through the experience of over 300 years. One thing that my experience as a food photographer has taught me is that you can easily line up your pickled carrots in a neat row if you use a toothpick. Come on, don’t be a toothpick hater.

bowl of marshmallows by clarke conde

The Serving Bowl

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Big and green and filled with marshmallows, the bowl from the yard sale cost four dollars. Sing it with me.

bacon-wrapped jalapenos by clarke conde

Paper Towels

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Three things I really enjoy are: foods wrapped in bacon, tools that actually work when I am trying to photograph foods like these bacon wrapped jalapeños and modifying quotes by Napoleon to suite my own needs. That’s right — “A food shoot runs on paper towels.”

Blue-rimmed Glass by clarke conde

Blue-rimmed Glass

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To mark the beginning of summer, I filled my new blue rimmed glass with one of my summertime favorites, an Arnold Palmer and Jack, and headed into Old Town Albuquerque. Just off the crowded plaza, I found a red bench for this photograph and quickly shot the cocktail as tourists milled about. As I walked back to the studio, the band in the gazebo lit into a spirited version of a Chuck Berry song in Spanish that was the perfect accompaniment for a beverage that is also made better by blending classic elements in unexpected ways.

Lightning Jar by clarke conde

The Lightning Jar

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Tonight I was given a lightning jar at an early-evening picnic in the park. All glass and with the addition of the metal hasp, the lightning jar was marked improvement over the Napoleonic stage of canning. Durable, reusable and full of salsa, the lightning jar makes a great addition to the New Dish Collection. 

dumplings by clarke conde

The Square Bowl

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I usually shy away from crazy-shaped bowls, finding that they distract from the food, but this white porcelain square bowl is understated enough to hold up to foods like these dumplings. Bought new for $2.99, I shot this latest addition to the food photography collection in yet another great spot here in Old Town Albuquerque.

noodle bowl by clarke conde

The Cutaway Bowl

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Perfection with noodles is an event, not a process. It occurs irregularly, and here, just shy of a mile high in Old Town Albuquerque, it takes a bit of an adjustment for an expatriate New Yorker. Altitude. Attitude. That said, for a food photograph of noodles, I’m good with this.

bamboo cutting board

The Bamboo Cutting Board

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Is it fair to say I’m a convert? No, but I can speak at length about the benefits of a bamboo cutting board. Though again, I am a food photographer, not a cook, so I am still on the lookout for a well-used hardwood cutting board for shoots. This cutting board is a clean, light bamboo version that cost all of $7.99 new. Stacks of radish-stuffed paratha look great on it here in the Old Town Plaza, Albuquerque, New Mexico.

Dried herring by clarke conde

The Column

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The final dish of this New Dish Project is a fitting conclusion to this project and a great tool when you want to elevate some food dramatically. This project has been a chance to explore and shoot in the diverse environment of Old Town Albuquerque, New Mexico, with its unending textures and beautiful, natural light. It has been a chance to spend some time collecting and shooting new dishes, but moreover, thinking and writing about the tools of food photography. And it has been a chance to meet my new neighbors and show the kind of work that can be produced out of this new studio. It has also established a baseline for a new normal. A month into being here, Old Town regulars now hardly give a second look when I walk by with a camera, a miniature column and a fist full of dried herring.